Sunday, May 17, 2009

What's the story?

A long time ago, I don't remember the year but it must have been at least thirty-five years ago, I went on a sightseeing trip to Hannibal MO with my family. Hannibal is famous as the place where Mark Twain grew up and there are all kinds of tacky Mark Twain sights that you can go see. I had been there before - it's the kind of place you go on field trips. My mother was always game for day trips too and we went a few times as a family.

Bill Bryson, in his book The Lost Continent, described Mark Twain's boyhood home very accurately:

It cost two dollars to get in and was a disappointment. It purported to be a faithful reproduction of the original interiors, but there were wires and water sprinklers clumsily evident in every room. I also very much doubt that young Samuel Clemens' bedroom had Armstrong vinyl on the floor (the same pattern as was in my mother's kitchen, I was interested to note) or that his sister's bedroom had a plywood partition in it. You don't actually go in the house; you look through the windows. At each window there is a recorded message telling you about that room as if you were a moron ("This is the kitchen. This is where Mrs. Clemens would prepare the family's meals ...). The whole thing is pretty shabby, which wouldn't be so awful if it were owned by some underfunded local literary society and they were doing the best they could with it. In fact, it is owned by the City of Hannibal, and it draws 135,000 visitors a year. It's a little gold mine for the town.

Since we had been to Hannibal before (I don't remember why were bothering to see it again) we were looking for something different to do and we saw an advertisement for "Rockcliffe Mansion". It had very little to do with Samuel Clemens (he had been a guest once) and we thought that was great so we drove up to it.

Rockcliffe Mansion was ... a mansion. A very beautiful mansion. Hannibal is situated along the Mississippi River. The business area is down at river-level but there are hills and bluffs behind the town and Rockcliffe Mansion sits on top of one of them. It was designed by Barnett, Haynes and Barnett, of St. Louis, who had also designed the Missouri Governor's Mansion and many of the turn-of-the-century mansions in St. Louis' West End. The original owner was a local lumber baron, John J. Cruikshank, and he moved in with his wife and four daughters in 1900.

The thirty room mansion had a formal dining room, music room, library, two parlors and a "Moorish" room on the first floor (besides the kitchen, butler's pantry and breakfast room). It had a ballroom on the third room (plus servants quarters, a sewing room and a schoolroom) and multiple bedrooms on the second floor. What I remember most about the house was that it was fitted out for both gas lighting and the "new fangled" electricity. Mr. Cruikshank wanted to be modern but didn't trust electricity was reliable so all the light fixtures had both electric and gas. This must have been fairly common at the time because after touring the mansion I was watching Meet Me in St. Louis and noticed, in the scene where Esther asks John to accompany her around the house while she turns out the lights, that all the light fixtures in that house had both electricity and gas.

I've always loved going through old houses but this one especially struck me because it had so many original furnishings and because of its story. The Cruikshanks moved into the house in 1900 and the daughters grew up in it. One of the daughters got married and moved into the house right next door. In 1924 Mr. Cruikshank died. His widow moved in with her daughter next door. The house was boarded up and never lived in again. Forty years later the city was going to condemn it and it was going to be torn down. (The daughter was still living next door.) But a group of intrepid local individuals decided to check it out. They gained access to the house and discovered a time capsule.

When Mrs. Cruikshank moved out she left everything exactly as it was. There was still furniture in it, and paintings, even some clothes were still there. It was as if she walked out one day, turned the key and never came back. And the house was so well built that it was still structurally fine.

Inside, [they] found, under the crust of years of soot and grime, gigantic rooms and halls with palladium windows and 10 carved marble and tile fireplaces. Rockcliffe, as the home became known, was built by a lumber baron, Mr. John J. Cruikshank, who had supplied as building materials only the finest quality walnut, oak and mahogany that could be found. With the double brick wall construction and the innovative designing by Barnett, Haynes, and Barnett of St. Louis, this particular home was far more solid after 75 years than most homes built today.

Once this was discovered the house, of course, had to be saved. And it was.

But although you can find this story many places (on the house's Website and on a wikipedia page, as well as information you can get at the house) it never answers the question that I have always had. Why did it happen? Why did Mrs. Cruikshank just turn the key in the lock and leave everything as it was? Why did they not sell the house? It might have been different in the depression, but in 1924 surely there would have been a buyer. Or even after the war. And even if they kept the house why was it never emptied? I've never seen an answer to these questions.

I've been thinking about this because Rockcliffe Mansion is now for sale. For a mere $1,500,000 you could own it and all of its furnishings. Here's a link to some exterior shots of the house and here's a link to interior views so you can see for yourself what a beautiful house this is. There's loads of beautiful woodwork (since Mr. Cruikshank was a lumber baron).

So, thinking about this, I did a little googling. I found an 1880 St. Louis Newspaper reference, dateline Hannibal, Missouri, referring to a case by the State of Missouri against John T. K. Hayward, James Hayward, & John J. Cruikshank for printing and circulating a lewd pamphlet. That may have been Mr. Cruikshank's father. I found a NY Times article about a divorce in the late 1800's between a John J. Cruikshank and his wife Mary (with a daughter and son mentioned). I found a photo of John J. Cuikshank's home in about 1890 on Lyon street which may be the home his wife Mary received in the divorce. I found a History of Cruikshank Lumber in google books which states that JJ Cruikshank retired from the business in the late 1890's and it was taken over by his son (must have been the son by his first wife). In retirement he built "Rock Cliff" the most beautiful mansion in northeastern Missouri. I found a story of ghosts in the house.

Finally I found the Missouri Department of Natural Resources site where I found the report (pdf) made when it was placed on the national registry of historic places:

When J. J. Cruikshank, Senior (d. 1890) moved his lumber business to Hannibal from Alton, Illinois in 1856 he was joining an already burgeoning trend. Although Missouri did not itself have large lumber resources, Hannibal turned its geographical position to advantage, using the Mississippi River to float logs down from Wisconsin and Minnesota and the railroads to transport processed lumber to points west and south. In that first year Cruikshank handled one million board feet of lumber. By the late 1880's this figure had risen to forty million annually and the Cruikshank firm was just one of a number of local lumber companies, twelve in 1870, ten in 1883. J. J. Cruikshank, Junior, succeeded his father as head of the firm in 186^, and by 1883, before the real peak of the business, he was estimated to be worth up to half a million dollars. After the Civil War, like others in his position, he expressed his affluence in a large Italianate house. Its location on the southeast corner of Fifth and Lyon Streets was just across the street from the father of his wife, the former Mary E. Bacon, and in the part of town known as Millionaire's Row.

In 1884 this marriage ended in divorce, and two years later he married Annie Louise Hart (born 1860), twenty-seven years his junior. In the next eight years, four daughters were born to them, and it is likely that the desire to please and to show off this new young family encouraged him to consider building a new and more fashionable house.

It goes on to say:

Socially, the house worked as hoped. At the opening reception in June, 1901, the Empire Orchestra played for 700 guests. Daughter Gladys was married on the stair landing-in 1912, Louise and Helen on the veranda in 1915 and 1925, respectively. The social high point came on June 2, 1902, when Mark Twain addressed some 300 guests from the stairway. By that time the lumbering-industry had declined considerably, and by 1905 rafting was "almost past." J. J. Cruikshank Junior's death in 1924 led to the house's closing. It remained unoccupied for forty-three years.

All very interesting, but still doesn't answer my questions.

On a Fodor's site I found someone's report on a trip to Hannibal:

Finally we went to the Rockcliff Mansion. WOW!!!

After J.J. Cruikshank, Jr.died in 1924, his window took a few items, fired the servents and went next door to live with her daughter. The family then ignored the house until the city told them in the 1960s to fix it up or tear it down. So the daughter arranged to have it bulldozed into the cellars!!!!
Some people in town were able to buy it from her just a few days before it was to be demolished. What they found was: books still in the book cases, hand carved furniture from Italy, Tiffany lamps, lighting fixtures and windows, linens, and clothing. There was some water damage, but the woodwork and wallpaper were still in good condition. All this, the daughter was going to wantonly destroy! It's definately worth the trip to see.

That seemed to be the same story the guide had told us when we visited the house so long ago. So maybe its true. But why? Why wouldn't the interior furnishings have been sold? It makes no sense to me.

It seems like a good mystery or at least a good mysterious background for a novel.

By the way, google is amazing. Once I knew the name of his first wife I discovered that she re-married in 1902 in England.

10 comments:

  1. Housekeeping note: the link to the exterior views is broken. Here's the correct link.

    It is a gorgeous place. It's hard to believe they want so little for it. Then again, maybe they're asking so little because it would cost so much to maintain it.

    As for why she closed it up and left, she may have simply been unable to stay in a house we so many memories of her husband but was equally unable to let anybody else live in a house that contained so much of him.

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  2. I can throw in $20...$25 tops. What do you have Andi?

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  3. The biggest downside to the house (besides the cost of maintenance) is location. You'd have to want to live in Hannibal MO. There are a number of beautiful homes in St. Louis (some designed by the same architects) that are bought and sold and maintenace isn't an issue for the rich people who buy them. But Hannibal is out of the way and a small town - much different than it was at the turn of the last century even.

    Maybe that's why she turned the key. It makes a good story.

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  4. Not sure if there is a story here, but I found it odd that all of the bedrooms are connected, and that the children's rooms had no privacy. Not only were there doors in the bedrooms that led to the main hallway, but there were doors on either side of the bedrooms that led to either another bedroom or a bathroom. In fact, one of the children's bedrooms, shared a bathroom with the interior designer's bedroom. Also, the twins' bedrooms were on either side of John's bathroom and bedroom.

    According to the tour recording, when the city approached the only living daughter about the status of the house, the daughter said to bulldoze it to the ground. Comments of that type could lead one to believe that the daughter had terrible memories of that house; more importantly, terrible memories of what happened IN the house. What kind of man would want private access to his daughter's bedrooms, and then keep his wife in a bedroom that was not connected to his room?

    More interesting is the fact that in the tour, we were told that the 2nd wife was actually engaged to be married to John's son, but John married her instead. If I recall correctly, John threatened to disinherit his son if he didn't agree to giving up his fiancé.

    If this is true, I can't imagine that there was a lot of love in the house or that the family functions were happy occasions.

    Another odd thing is that John's wife's bedroom was 2 rooms away from his bedroom. Also, there is a rather large window in what I believe was the wife's dressing room, or bathroom, (someone else can verify or refute this), but the large window is accessible from the steps of the servant's stairwell to the 3rd floor. The key word here is "accessible." Who would need to access her private quarters? I believe the window was a frosted glass variety, so I don't think it was used for voyeurism, but I find it hard to believe that a window was installed in that particular area, especially since it did not add any value to the architectural or functional design of the house as far as I could determine.

    My opinions may be biased simply because of the information received in the house tour, but I just don't understand the layout of the house, and I didn't like the fact that this short man had to have so much control over his family. When I toured the 2nd floor, I started to feel like something incredibly wrong and creepy had happened there...

    I may be wrong, so please feel free to correct me, or let me know if you experienced the same feeling that I did.

    Thanks.
    Rhonda

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  5. Hi Rhonda. It was so long ago that I toured the house that it's bit hard to remember. But I do remember being surprised, NOT that the husband and wife had separate bedrooms (I'd seen that before in a lot of old mansions and, actually, I kind of like the idea) but that they had another room between them. Yes, I remember there was a bathroom (his) and then a smaller bedroom between their bedrooms. I think it was his bathroom that had a big window - it opened out over the front portico.

    I also remember hearing that the daughter was ready to let them tear it down. Which made NO sense to me if it was still in decent condition. The whole idea that they shut it up and just left it was just strange to me.

    I don't remember knowing about her being the son's fiance. Great story though. Someone should write a novel ... :)

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  6. I toured this house about 15 years ago and it was beautiful but when we were touring the 2nd floor where the bedrooms were it totally creeped me out. The little girls bedroom was connected to the old man's and their mom's room was on the other side of the house. That's when I knew intuitively why Ms. Cruikshank and her daughters wanted the place bulldozed, regardless of the valubles inside. I'm surprized they didn't burn it to the ground. The place is also considered haunted. I found that there is a website that has real ghostbusters that went and stayed there. I looked at their website and they didn't "see" any ghosts but there were some voices on recordings. One of the recordings was clearly a little girl screaming. It made my skin crawl. The St. Louis Globe also printed a story in 1880 about Mr. John J. Cruikshank being involved with printing "lewd" pamphlets. They didn't use words like "porn" back then. He was a sick man. No wonder there are spirits that haunt the place.

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  7. I toured the house many years ago but I still remember the bad feeling I got from the house. My daughter and I both thought it was odd that the father had such access to his daughter's rooms. I kept getting the feeling that the father was well hated.

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  8. Nothing creepy: in those days, homes were taxed on the number of rooms they had - notice there is a lack of closets in the home? (Hence the Victorian use of wardrobes!) Connecting rooms were considered as a single room. So, JJ may have not spared any expense on his home...but he did cheat the taxman on the property tax! Also, there is a bathroom between JJ and his two oldest daughters. The younger daughters were on the third floor with the nanny/governess. JJ was a man of honor and beloved by his daughters, as their personal letters attest. The rumor of his buying off his son (by wife#1) to marry son's young girl is probably not true. Most likely, sonny boy made her with child and refused to marry her. Dad probably did the honorable thing by marrying the girl and paid off the son to spare the family honor.

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  9. Fact is, it IS odd. I just toured this home today. And each closet counted as a room in those days and it was taxed---whether or not it was adjoined. So, every room and each walk-in closet (very, VERY, Unusual to have such a thing if you're avoiding taxes) was taxed. I know this given the extensive amount of research and touring of historical homes that I've done in the region. And, personally, it is very very very VERY odd to just let a house of that kind of value and status deteriorate for 43 YEARS, right in front of your eyes and do NOTHING about it--unless you want to forget it. Unless something so heinous happened in that home that it gave one pleasure to see that old man's dream collapse in a slow decaying death. Let's not forget that both daughter and mother watched this happen, everyday, every moment they lived next door.

    I believe they hated that house. Hated everything about it. The children--the youngest children--slept next door to Mr. Cruikshanks. He shared his bathroom with them. Who knows what else he visited upon them. I imagine his second wife was disgusted with his philandering ways--and I also imagine she probably heard his indiscretions and was powerless to do anything about it. Women had no power during those times.

    Can you imagine what it would be like to be courted by his son, and at the threat of being disowned, have the son hand you over to his father's wooing? His second wife was quite pretty in her youth. Do you imagine that she wanted a lecher for a husband? That she wanted a man the age of her father rather than the young man she was dating? Do you know the pressure her family probably put upon her to marry the richest man around? Can you imagine the threats she probably received from that very same man if she didn't? He would have ruined her. Just as he tried to do with his ex-wife. No man would touch when he was through.

    Now, does that sound very happy?

    No. It sounds like that house was a hell, and the man possessed a disgusting evil that he visited upon his family behind closed doors.

    I imagine THAT is why they hated it enough to watch it rot slowly. And they did. Every day. Every moment. With pleasure.

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  10. FYI, I'm closing comments on this thread because I don't feel like monitoring comments on a post that is this old.

    For what it's worth, I thought it was a beautiful house and not creepy in the slightest. No weird vibes that I picked up.

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